Its the same temporary fix with the single climate control. Great video thx man! But my question is, where you showed that vacuum line that goes into the firewall, a "mechanic" pulled the line outta the firewall but won't confess to it not repair it without me paying him to fix his fuck up. Do you have to pull the dash to get to where that black vacuum line goes into the firewall in behind the dash?
Travis Gill Hey when you pull that vacuum solenoid down to make the air blow out the middle panel vents, will that just be fresh air or will the air recirculate like on max air? I couldn't get that thing to anchor down, so I just ended up taking the 2 screws that hold that solenoid in place and let it just drop down. That booger was a bitch to try zip tie down. Thanks again for your help sir.
O boy this could get tricky...all I can say is yes you will need to drop the glove box down and look around. Believe it or not not all are the same due to the plant hey were assembled...unreal but I have seen it
How does Ford get away with such horrible design in their heating and air conditioning truck units? Mine is the same way. It's 10 hours labour to replace heater core and blend door. About $1500.00 with parts, labour and tax! 😤😤😤😤 Outrageous !!!! 😯😯😯😯👎👎👎👎
This manual method worked for me. There was no leak in the major lines, but I had my mechanic smoke test the head unit and confirmed that the unit did have a leak. So, I laughed when he told me he could get me a new unit for $900installed. https://youtu.be/PtfucNa6R_o
This video showed how to replace the o-rings in the vacuum tubes inside the head unit, and he links to the parts and tools used in the repair. $40 later and an hour of my time, and I have a working A/C head unit. Thanks for the post.
Anybody know if 2006 Ford Ranger has arm in the same place, or if it is different place? I will look for this arm below driver side dash when I get home tonight. Thanks for your help!
My vacuum lines look fine, I might just try replacing heater/ac control panel as it is only $40 part.
I wedged a block of wood about 1 1/4" between the plunger and brace above it. Holds great and can remove it if it gets foggy until you fix the EATC. Thanks for your video for showing me where to go to fix it!!!
yes, its a Vacuum Leak (only blows through defrost), BUT it is NOT always from a broken vacuum line. AFTER you trace and inspect your vacuum lines, Left side of engine, across and behind engine to right side to the Vacuum Reservoir, and then back to the fire wall, and then more inspection under the dash BEHIND the glove box, if it all looks INTACT and GOOD, then, think about replacing the VENT SWITCH (MAX AC to DEFROST). It is a VACUUM switch, they wear out, and then leak. Just grab a replacement switch from a wrecking yard, hopefully from a vehicle with NOT to many miles, after installation, wait a minute or so for the Vacuum Pressure to develop, and you will be presently pleased.