Brake Pad Replacement. This video shows you how to change the brake pads in a 95 Ford Windstar. This process will work for most fords, especially from the 90s. The basic brake change process is similar on most other cars.
How to Replace Front and Rear Brake Pads and Rotors (complete guide): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lU6OKQxSg8U
How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlbFFq60Tec
Drum Brake Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ_UXP6GWkw
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Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
😀😕😀😕😀😕😀What also works quite effectively, is to use the OLD brake pad, or a small plate of 1/4 inch steel (mind the tariffs) placed over the piston, then push 'er back. Loosening the bleeder into a bucket or Chrisfix's self-priming bleeder bottle is a good way to get 'er back with very little hassle. Personally, I use these two things on my hands called "Thumbs". Since I never wait until the pads are worn out, I have never had to use a tool for this in the past 36 years. So, folks could try thumbs.Always wear nitrile gloves too. It is amazing how all those little nicks a person normally gets just stop happening. My niece, a heavy duty mechanic at Caterpillar, got me into that, and also wearing a bumper cap to prevent those goose eggs on my noggin!🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
I think you may have forgotten to let the folks know that they have to open the brake reservoir before doin a brake job because when you compress the piston back in the brake fluid will rise and need to be turkey based out..
THIS QUESTION HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS VIDEO! HAVE YOU EVER HAD OR COME ACROSS WHERE THE ODOMETER LIGHT GOES OFF & ON WHEN IT WANTS TO ! HOW HARD IS IT TO REPLACE OR RESOLDER WHERE IT'S CRACKED MAYBE? I FIGURE THE COMPUTER KEEPS THE MILEAGE & SENDS IT TO DISPLAY ON THE DASH? THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS & HELP! BE SAFE! HAVE FUN! GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, in a 'real' way. I didn't feel like you were 'talking down ' to me. Just simply instructions from a regular guy. Felt like a friend was helping me out. You have a great style, just being you. Many thanks for the video, keep 'em coming!
When you compress the caliper hydraulic piston make sure you use a brake pad so it will go in evenly instead of pressure at one side. Not necessary but if you got a test by an inspector they recommend you do that.
Amazingly impressive video instructions UNTIL you get to 7:40 where your use of the caliper tool is a completely wrong. NEVER put pressure on the edge of the caliper piston! You want that tool (or any other tool) CENTERED with the caliper piston .... try this: back off the threads of the tool with enough gap so you can temporarily put back one of the old pads across the caliper piston. (you'll soon be pressing the old brake pad, rather than directly on the piston) This provides smooth and even pressure across the caliper piston's full diameter. (you're together pressing both the pad/caliper back in place.
I was already a subscriber of yours btw. You are a very talented producer with these videos, with very detailed information that others would simply overlook. The camera angles and lighting is superb. No one is perfect, so I hope my comments did not offend you.
Thanks for your time and effort!
i was change the brake pad 3 years ago and after 2 months pad finished then my mecanic change then it but same problems then i give to another mecanic same problems. finally i sold the car now i got a reason what was hapening
I hope you see this comment lol. I literally just went to channel to check for new videos already seen the fix winshield so i looked for a video to do brakes on my 94 mercury cougar xr7 has the 4.6 same as ur gt and im scrolling through videos and picked yours didn't realize untill i heard "hey guys Chrisfix here"
A 'C' clamp or 'G' Clamp as some people refer is around $10AUD at supercheap auto here in Australia. Just go to a car parts place or hardware store and ask for a cheap one. Don't need a massive one, prob around 15-20CM or 6inch (which my one is). A socket set, jack and a big flat head screwdriver helps to pry the brake caliper out (Just don't scratch the shiny rotor/disc part ;),. Use the old brake pad and rest it against the piston(s) and then use the clamp to push it in and make sure the brake fluid depository inside the engine bay is opened up. . Wish I could show you, but I don't have a camera etc. I'm currently doing a Ford Festiva Trio 94 model. And the brake caliper setup is basically the same, but slightly different.
Thanks for the great video. Watched it before changing pads on my 2003 Ford Ranger. Some slight differences... my pads had built in shims and didn't come with grease, but I had already bought some grease for the pads anyway. I'll certainly watch your updated one when I feel the need to change my rotors.
Thank you SO much for your instruction style. I watched 3 other videos to learn how to do this and they all went over things like they were speaking to someone who knows what they're going. You took time to speak on details without speaking down and taking time to take the camera and SHOW those details. Changed my front brakes on my Mustang for the first time in my life successfully thanks to you! Great job !
what about washing the piston which exert pressure on brake pads, I just recently got replaced the brake pads, but iliterates did not bother to do any of the above things, such as cleaning brake pads housing etc and applying grease
Great video, BUT beginners need to know two more things. #1 - When you push back the piston in the caliper, the brake fluid may very well overflow the reservoir on the master cylinder. You need to know how to deal with this. #2 - You need to pump up the brakes in order to make sure the pads are in contact with the rotors before you start driving. Very important. There is nothing like the feeling you get when the car is moving and you step on the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor and you can't stop. Also, the tool for pushing back the piston as shown in the video is being used incorrectly. It should be positioned to push down in the center of the piston, NOT on the edge as was shown. If you don't understand anything in the video, or what I have written here, please get the work done by a professional. A incorrectly done brake job can be a matter of life or death. No kidding. Good luck.
What also works quite effectively, is to use the OLD brake pad, or a small plate of 1/4 inch steel (mind the tariffs) placed over the piston, then push 'er back. Loosening the bleeder into a bucket or Chrisfix's self-priming bleeder bottle is a good way to get 'er back with very little hassle. Personally, I use these two things on my hands called "Thumbs". Since I never wait until the pads are worn out, I have never had to use a tool for this in the past 36 years. So, folks could try thumbs.Always wear nitrile gloves too. It is amazing how all those little nicks a person normally gets just stop happening. My niece, a heavy duty mechanic at Caterpillar, got me into that, and also wearing a bumper cap to prevent those goose eggs on my noggin!
hi there i get a grinding noise and a vibration in my pedal only when braking iv replaced brake pads and rotatorys and wheel bearing and its still the same iv just ordered brake lines is there anything else it could be thanks
Thanks much .......... I used to take both bolts off and played heck trying to get them back on ............ duh, never thought of just taking one off and swiveling up ........ you just taught an old dog a new trick ........... God Bless and Keep up the Good Work
I've used my brakes for 25.000km now since i saw your video. Now they have starten to come with this sharp noise every time i use 5% of my brakes power. but if i brake a little harder it disapear. i have tried to remove it by braking very hard servel times and it helps in 10 mins but then its back
+ThunderWindz If you didnt change the brake rotors or you used cheap brake pads they will make noise. I will h ave a video out on all of that soon. For now, this video should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJDOuZzEAQc
Hey Chris, just changed oil for the first time thanks to your vid! pretty cool knowing I can do something on a car. of course I'm eager for bigger and better things and to become more knowledgeable. I was wondering if you should replace rotors on every brake job or how to tell when to change rotors if you don't need to do it every time.
I started to hear a grind yesterday without warning. Man, this sucks. I'm in the middle of moving and am at the end of my cash until the end of the month. Thanks for this video. I'm going to buy the cheapest pads in the morning and try this out. It looks doable, but then I hope the last mechanic didn't tighten the lugs too much. (fingers crossed)
By the way, I hear a grind while on a slow roll. (2012 Transit Connect XLT). Anyone have any ideas why that may occur? I'll know more tomorrow hopefully. But in the meantime, I wonder why that would happen. :(
(I swear I didn't know this was coming. Maybe I was getting a squeal, but I always have the radio on.)
Thank you ChrisFix Ive been a subscriber for a while now
And I watch your videos because
They are always high quality and clear to listen to and understand
I did my brake pads today and it was easy thanks to your video
Brilliant video. Chris Fix, you gave me the confidence to change the front pads on my Mondeo ST200 (Contour SVT in the States). I have done oil & filter, plugs, fuel, cabin & air filter, plus removed my upper and lower intake manifolds to clean but never dare attempt brakes... until now. First side took an hour from start to finish, other side 20 minutes. Tip for others, I used one of the old pads to lay across the piston when using the rewind tool. Thanks again, probably saved me £50.
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