I wanted to make a follow up video to my original video about why you should not steam clean the engine in your car.
Now...if you want your engine to be all shiny and new looking by all means clean it how you wish, but be very careful to not get water or high pressure water in places it should not be. Most people would drive to the local car wash and use the high pressure hose to do it yourself steam clean....and cause major electrical issues later on.
CRC Brakleener is a safe alternative to cleaning the oil and grease from your hard engine parts without the risk of damaging delicate wiring with the use of water.
Many different Composites of plastic have many different effects in relation to things used on it there is PVC abs then there's some gray stuff I don't know the name of there could be a combination of two different chemicals in the vehicle such as that can taner window washing fluid brake fluid power steering fluid motor oil transmission fluid it's Murphy's Law I think they're trying to say by the way there I have said that
The can says "Brake Cleaner."I wonder what the product is designed for? It don't say Engine Degreeser which CRC does make and is completely diffrent ingredients that wont hurt the eletricals and gaskets on your engine. All this will do is eat vacuum hoses away. And as guy stated a clean engine is an engine that can breath less chance of sucking dirt into it scoring piston walls.
Careful with those statements that a clean engine does not make a difference... some of us are bigger slobs than others and can let things slide so far.
While I agree with you in general I have seen cars with an oil leak that caked so thick over time it eventually fell into the belt then flung the oil into the alternator. Some morons will take these things to extremes of neglect. AKA hoarders. That brake kleen stuff is wicked though.
I used degreaser after trying to shop towel clean it and got nowhere fast. Sparyed the degrease and followed up with a light hose and catch pan and all was done quickly.
If you go to an NHRA drag racing event, you will see the crews using this product exclusively to clean engine parts/chassis surfaces because it's effective and FAST...they have to tear down and reassemble engines in 45 mins between rounds...so this fits the bill perfectly.
I have a clean Engine but the A Arms the Transmission the complete underside of the Engine is super grease and built up crud. I'm gonna give this a try and thanks guys. I appreciate you'r style and no bullshit, just like myself ! Many Many thanks and good luck in this politicly correct, blame it on anyone but the man responsible country we now have.
I have used break cleaner and it does work great. This one hes recommending may be better than the one I purchased at advanced but it does work great at removing grime and grease fast and it dries fast as well.
You said "it harms rubber partS" not just the guide pin boots. But my comment still stands. You can spray the stuff on rubber just don't be stupid and let it completely evaporate from the surface and the rubber won't become brittle.
A clean engine DOES run cooler than a dirty engine caked with grease mud, all that grease mud caked on a engine block traps or insulates heat. And that CRC spray does Work great hands down!!!!!!!!!!!!.
One of the reason the engine should be clean is to avoid high temperature due too grind over the years. Keep in mind that the fan blows cool air across the engine but with gunk building up on the surface it makes it take longer to cool.
you are right
but that amount of thermal insulation from gunk is only a extreme example. your radiator fan blows air when the car is stopped to keep it from overheating. while driving is using natural aspiration.
At Autozone the salesman showed me on their screen that the #05089 is in the description on the computer screen and sold me the product even though the #05050 is on the can. I read it and it says extremely flammable!
I have a 2005 ford escape with a oil leak so the engine is dirty right now. we are getting ready to sell it and i will be doing what the your video says to do. i will post a video of before and after with this brakeleen. Thank you for your help
Dealing with engines for over 50 years I disagree with you about your engine doesn't care about being clean. Oil on the engine causes the heat to be retained while running. It acts like an insulator. When you remove this oily film, your engine will dissipate heat much faster.
I have been using that brake cleaner for 10+ years and love it. Did not know it was not flammable. Darn, I like fire. Seriously, good brake cleaner and did not consider it for any other cleaning due to the harsh nature of brake dust and figured it was quite harsh. Mau give it a shot elsewhere. Mineral spirits are a great choice for cleaning greasy parts but I would not get it near painted parts. May damage thr finish. Thanks for the info.
I think I may have found the origin of your haters problem. I live in California and I looked this stuff up at my local Autozone, there is a very similar can, same part number 05089, but then a CA at the end that stands for California. California hates everything that's good and American. The CA or California version IS flammable, and probably full of hippie juice.
Hey auston , dont listen to these incompetent viewers, they need to spend time reading the can , not inhaling the contents .... my beemer motor was a rolling oil tanker disaster and the crc took 98 percent off and looks great now just need to change valve gaskets and do the k&w block seal.... will let you know how it goes and keep up the good videos ....
I'm looking to replace the clutch in my 86 vanagon. There's a lot of gunk under there I'd rather not get up to my elbows in when I start wrenching. Would you recommend using this product for that purpose or...?
This seems to make a whole lot more sense than spraying pressurized water inside an engine where there are dozens of electrical connectors. Like he said, this stuff dries so fast it will be gone in a few minutes, and hence no long term problems like when you have water sitting in an electrical connection for months.
Working on Cars is different than Detailing a car. Take a lighter to the can bro. Also although there are no immediate effects when you spray the rubber. This principle might be above you... The compounding effect of natures elements and brake clean on the rubber hoses will ruin the longevity for the long run. Also realize most rubber hoses in an engine hold pressure or temperature. cooling hoses power steering lines. Fluid heat up to operating temperature and cool. It is similar to tempering. Brake clean though will not make rubber explode into a million pieces will reduce the life of the rubber a lot faster....
There are these mechanics who love brake clean swear by it... It is simply a tool not a silver bullet. In segmentation they call this the niche market. Like Girls with their high heel shoes gucci prada only.... He's a fan boy of part #05089
Also for engine leaks you can buy a die to put in the oil just like you ac system.
Hold the lighter to the can
Also psychologically having clean car can reduces stress ergo a clean engine can have this effect.
Forgive the brevity. Have a good day Sir I have no doubt you are a decent tech.
that is cool i know my motor and transmission is oily and 1985 F250 inline 6 4.9L it bites that it is hard to know where it is leaking with oil all over...
I just figured out i have to replace the clutch in this truck is there a easy way to fix it, because it works it just fights me if i give the motor more RPM if i shift gears?
I spray engine decrease on EVERYTHING except the battery, air filter, and carb. I have a cracked seal on my camshaft cover so I do this a lot. belts haven't became brittle or slip or anything. just don't let it sit to long rinse well and u should be cool
I would try to avoid it, but I have sprayed it on a serpentine belt that was soaked in coolant and making a chirping noise....did not have a problem after spraying it. Would definitely avoid cam or timing belts just to be safe.
Some people are just prone to disagree. This guy clearly states his case but as usual some are going to bash. He could have said the sky looks blue without clouds and he still would have been bashed. I use the stuff on transmissions and engine parts + I use it around the swimming pool against wasps- nests and flying. Hit them while flying and down they go. By the way, where are the bashers video's--- Oh that's right they are camera shy .
are you could just use a can of engine degreaser and a pressure washer like every shop does. Sorry to say if you want things really clean your gonna have to scrub rinse repeat repeat,repeat using brake clean can damage paint ,plastics and rubber , so can degreaser but not as quickly as brake clean
Thanks! I actually sold my shop a few years ago and went 100% online. My grandfather started our shop in 1937, in the Heights area...its still there but a new owner. I have heard really good things about the new owners and they seem to be doing very well. I would recommend them to a friend. Master Auto, 2305 Yale St. Houston, 77008, 713-862-6639
Thanks for sharing this great cleaner.I will use it (CRC red can Breakleen)
Do you have any other usefull cleaning tips for car exterior or to restore clear coat from sand blasted areas in roof and tail gate. Colorado highways are taking the clear coat off my cars
Thanks for your comment. If the clear coat has been removed, there is not much you can do except repaint. You can try rubbing compound if you want, the clear coat might just be damaged/faded and can come back to life using very light pressure and a can of compound.
Bro I think your point is stupid. I clean my engine every 6 months before inspection. That way if there is any leak you will fucking see it clearly. Then if you get cancer hiv ir any other internal disease it means that you will not shower anymore cause something inside is failing anyway?? To be clean is a choice.
In neither video do you show an actual engine being cleaned. I don't care how it looks on your driveway or in a cup. I want to see you actually cleaning an engine with it. Show us step-by-step, then show a before-and-after. That would be useful. These videos aren't.
Yes you can do that, just make sure it dries before reinstalling the plug. BUT, how did the oil get inside the cylinder and will it do it again? Could be due to work out piston rings, or leaking/cracked valve guide seals. Either way you are doing some internal repair to this engine. If the oil is just on the outside of the plug (not inside the cylinder) then your valve cover is probably leaking at the spark plug grommets which needs to be replaced.
Thanks for the video. I use this on everything. Throttle bodies, lawn mower carbs, bicycle axles etc. Works great on brakes and clutches too. Some brakes still contain asbestos. I used to blow those out with air. Think how much safer this is for mechanics not to have tons of shit airborne.Also have had CRC and carb cleaner blast back in my eyes several times. Always wear safety glasses. Just saying.
I will admit that stuff ate the paint off my door when I tried to degrease my latch mech, but! It's a great degreaser and is highly effective I personally love it but it actually does eat certain rubbers, plastics and paints but is great for say a block
I know you are talking about automobile (water cooled) engines ,but keep in mind that air cooled engines should be kept clean so they run cooler. I agree about break parts cleaner though I spray down everything I work on with the stuff! Good for cleaning up tools if they get greasy too.
I agree with you about NOT using any type of high pressure water to clean an engine and engine bay, whether it be just hot water or high pressure steam and exactly for the reasons you stated.
I have and still do use Brake Cleaners (over 30 years of mechanical experience) of various name brands including the CRC brand..
What I have found is that it does work as you have stated, BUT I would not advocate for using it very often if at all in any contact with rubber or plastic parts and pieces, because it can and will accelerate the decay of those materials. I have seen the effects first hand on various cars/trucks I have worked on and owned over the years. The rubber will become hard and crack open, and the plastic parts will sometimes just crumble in your hand.
When there is repeated exposure the rubber and plastic parts/pieces will decay and fail at a much higher, quicker rate than normal, especially on older vehicles. I have noticed that the newer vehicle's plastic and rubber parts seem to be more resistant or better able to withstand the effects of chlorinated solvents, but I would still be hesitant and careful about any contact.
For those who want to clean and maintain their engine and engine bay regularly, I would recommend a set of nylon bristled brushes in various configurations, soap and water to dip the brushes in, a low pressure misting sprayer to rinse with, a very low pressure steam cleaner if needed for really greasy areas and low pressure compressed air to help blow away any excess water and dry the engine and bay. NOTE: This is just how I do it and my recommendation is NOT meant to be an absolute, definitive guide by any means.
Back to the Brake Cleaners, they are a great way to degrease parts, surfaces etc., as Austin has demonstrated for us, but I would use them carefully and according to the directions on the can.
Austin is also correct about the environmentally friendly cleaners, plain and simple, they do not work near as well as the chlorinated versions.
In closing, please nice guys, Austin is just presenting a product and his views and opinions on how to perform certain automotive tasks with it. Don't attack him for doing that, just present your own procedures, opinions and views as I have done. Then we can all sit back and read through them and choose the way we would like to do it that suits us best.
This is what I do with Austin's and other's videos and suggestions, because even though I have long experience in this area myself, I have found that I can often learn something new and that's the whole point of watching vids like this on YT isn't it?
Very informative and intuitive thank you for the information I will use that stuff from now on you are absolutely right I used a high pressure hose on my engine and it did more harm than good cost me over $300 on my e39 BMW.
I have a 2001 Tacoma putting off code p0306 misfires 6th cylinder
It gives me 6 or 7 possible reasons. Rough idol at low speeds and reverse.
Don't want to just throw money at it, any thoughts? Would you start with cleaning injectors and if so what product do you recommend? And if not where would you start?
Thanks love your post and i'm a fellow Texan
Thanks so much for the response. Will follow your advice payday and give you an update. I live outside Dallas otherwise I'd let your guy take a look, but thanks for the offer. Appreciate your post keep up the good work.
Hey there fellow Texan! Well to be totally honest I would recommend you get a local mechanic to check into this for you and pay the $90 diagnostic fee to be sure what the culprit is.
You are correct, this issue can be caused by all kinds of things, and anything I suggest you replace as a guess is going to cost you more than the $90, guessing usually.....scratch that, always costs more. If you are in N. Houston, I can recommend my top mechanic who is working in the Magnolia/Woodlands area.
Now, if this vehicle has not had a tune up in the last 90,000 miles, then spark plugs and wires ( I am assuming this year model has plug wires still, if not then an ignition coil would be worth testing or swapping out with another cylinder) would be a good idea to start anyway just as maintenance items regardless if it fixes the issue or not, its time.
Fuel injector cleaning, sure you can do that as well for maintenance although in most cases they clean themselves pretty good but I have seen a few of them fail internally and a few get a piece of carbon stuck in them that can cause a misfire situation and high pressure cleaning will help.
Hope that helps
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