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Replacing upper / thrust control arm on late model BMW 5, 6, 7 and X series

Оценок: 2812 | Просмотров: 314938
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for control arm and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series 04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004 through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series 06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series (F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models with minor detail differences. The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models and chassis not listed here. PARTS USED: • Upper (thrust/strut) control arm * New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt TOOLS USED: * Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool - • 3/8" drive Torx bit socket set * 3/8" drive Allen metric bit socket set * 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions • 1/2" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm - 21mm • open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm • Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. 3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s). 4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the end of the ball joint's through-pin. Once the nut is loose, the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut. NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool. 5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount. 7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink bracket aside. 8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen the strut clamp. 9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out). 10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt. 11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle. 12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the bushing through-bolt. 13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping saddle. 14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool. 15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the Bentley repair manual. 16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual). 17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully tighten the nut. NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work under to access the bushing bolt and nut). 12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).
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Текстовые комментарии (197)
Anthony Mattei (1 месяц назад)
great video
Hona Wikeepa (1 месяц назад)
I've done some work on my wife's 540 i. Tie rods replaced. Cost $60 each and 30 mins work. Great video.
Osi Dubai (2 месяца назад)
They replaced these parts beating with hummer, i had to do alignment, after all the wheels still shaking on the normal speed of 80, what could be the reason ? thanks
DoesItTakeGlockMags? (2 дня назад)
Osi Dubai try the lower control arm this is only the upper
Alan Welsh (2 месяца назад)
ERRATA for a 2003 745i, things that can go wrong and how to fix them. -- USE a rubber mallet to knock the wheel down the strut, JUST far enough to get the ball joint out. Also, try the crowbar as shown in the video to bring it down. When putting it back up, you DO need a jack of some kind. Then make sure you are lifting on the lower/rear ball joint so that it is lifting the wheel assembly straight up, directly under the center of the strut, or it can bind. If using a floor jack, use a piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint so you don't damage the grease seal. Also, miss the sheet metal flange when lifting. I used the rubber mallet with the jack to get it to go back in place. -- When dropping the wheel assembly down on the strut, it can come all the way down, off the strut, (for NO value). When you lift it back into the strut, there is a TAB behind the wheel on the strut, that must travel up and down the clamp assembly. You MUST alight the strut with this tab, or it will never go back. It can also get twisted over to one side and bind, and you will see the car lift, instead of the wheel on strut. (I used a small mirror from the outside of the wheel well, while the jack lifted it into place.) Use large pliers to grab the strut and easily twist it to align the tab. -- NOTE that if replacing the other lower/rear control arm, you can't get the new arm in, while the wheel is down from the strut--it must be up and in-place. (This may have made it easier to drop it down too far, with it off. Try replacing this whole arm BEFORE you drop it from the strut.) -- My car only had the one nut and bolt on the wheel assembly clamp, and not the extra 17 MM bolt. -- My car has a plastic shield around the frame bolt on the strut, that comes off by hand. -- May car has a NASTY plastic AIR RAM, coming from the front grill, directly behind the frame bold at a 45 deg. angle, ONLY 1.5 INCHES AWAY from that bolt!! Push hard and you can get a torque wrench in there, but just barely! Now after you take the nut off, get a BIG CROWBAR and move the plastic out of the way far enough to pull a 4" bolt out. But before that, you will likely have to take some of the wheel liner bolts out that are next to it. While I'm sure you could remove the whole wheel well liner and many other things to remove that vent, (that vent goes directly into the wheel well), I think forcing it away with some bolts removed is a better method. -- When putting weight / stress on the wheel before tightening the frame nut / bolt to 80 ft/lbs, have someone at least sit in the car. I used the jack method to lift the wheel, the way most shops likely do when replacing the strut. You'd be surprised how far it moves with someone sitting in that seat, though.
Sérgio Pereira (3 месяца назад)
Had an 810€ bill for this shit in my F11
Raul Nyquist (3 месяца назад)
1:48 START THE REAL DEAL!!!
Steve Jagernauth (3 месяца назад)
Great video! I bought my bushings at BavAuto, will be changing only the UCA bushings and change the whole arm with BJ later if it fails as the pair of bushings was only $50.
Priz_sam Zabala (4 месяца назад)
Hey big a have a question?! 1st let me say your videos was perfect and very easy to follow but I also have another problem with my steering mechanism now if you look on your video when you’re under the car there is the sway bar and another aluminum round piece that’s a welded to the body of the car right next to the sway bar would you happen to know what that is called or where I can find one to replace mine’s.. please and thank you
CLS CLS (4 месяца назад)
just did mine on my  2002 bmw 745li everything was east except when I tried to put the new one on it wouldn't line up but I finally got it on... thanks for the video
Iwona Rudnik (5 месяцев назад)
awsome
Jedi Luke 22 (5 месяцев назад)
Awesome vid. Thanks
Oleg Perelet (5 месяцев назад)
On my E39 528 Balljoint is tapered and you will need balljoint separator/propane torch and some sweat to pop it up - NOT EASY. It will not just come out.
notimeboy (5 месяцев назад)
Otto, can you show the torque specs for the bolts removed? Thank you!
Isidro Carrillo (5 месяцев назад)
Nice job and very clear
Aaron Dunne (5 месяцев назад)
What are the torque specs?
D P (6 месяцев назад)
Do you really need to remove the shock? I have read diy tutorials that don't include that step.
Gianelli Capone (6 месяцев назад)
otto so monotone yet so smart and resourceful!!
KappaFANLoV (7 месяцев назад)
I was so curious how you actually pull out those ball joints out...but...you skipped that in the video. Anyway... My control arms seems to be weld in... I need solutions... Thank you for the video.
Kevin Carter (8 месяцев назад)
Thanks for the info. I gave my son a small budget to pick out another "responsible family car” while we finish his project truck. It was leaking profusely on day one so we replaced the alternator bracket seal. This is sliding off the bushing now. As it sits I, I have $2560 in it and it's the most luxurious car we own. I'm still trying to figure out INPA.
brabson97 (8 месяцев назад)
Great video - thanks!
Chris T (10 месяцев назад)
Absolutely excellent tutorial video. Very concise, especially on the suspension pre-load before tightening the bushing.
ToneW (10 месяцев назад)
is that called the upper or lower, i get differing opinions? i thought it is the lower control arm
Graham Lake (10 месяцев назад)
Can anyone look at the video I took of my bushings and tell me if they should have this much play?? https://youtu.be/l9mUYVoDA0c
Graham Lake (10 месяцев назад)
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
paul waller (11 месяцев назад)
Great clear & very helpful thanks
Michel Saikalis (11 месяцев назад)
Nice video. But it is not for the X3.
G P (11 месяцев назад)
Great tutorial! very well explained. I think I can do this on my E66 750LI
Dan Alex (1 год назад)
What is the cracking noise at slow turns of the steering wheel on the front axle on a bmw e53 3.0i??? Changed all front axle arms. Still does it
Dinh Le (10 месяцев назад)
Dan Alex coil shims. Replace them or just spray some wd40 leave it over night to soak in
Keith R (1 год назад)
Great video. I'm in the middle of changing my thrust arm out and the nut did spin off a little but now it is so bound up causing the ball joint to spin and I'm breaking Torx40 sockets due to the binding. The nut is backed off flush with the tip of the bolt. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this; heat, nut breaker, dremel?
Virgil Cole (1 год назад)
so wonderful but what was the thrust arm problem ? that seems to me very clean and intact . how we can check and diagnose them before change ?
PARDS2 (1 год назад)
GREAT JOB!!!
ProSlam (1 год назад)
Hello, can you make a video about E39 control arms ?
Jose Nambo (1 год назад)
Does an E39 have a similar set up? The thrust arm does look a bit familiar. 👀
Grzegorz Durda (1 год назад)
this is Virtually identical to the E39.
Manny Lopez (1 год назад)
Great work!!!
Praise and Worship (1 год назад)
The dealer said my front thrust rod bushing is going bad and quote me $850.00 . I'm trying to purchase it myself , quick question,  is the front thrust rod bushing the same as the   Upper Front Control Arm ?
Anthony Mattei (1 месяц назад)
they quoted me 904 bucks for both at dealer.. unreal parts are 60 bucks.. ill take to my personal mechanic..
Adam Reiner (10 месяцев назад)
Yes it's the upper control arm. A good way to tell the difference is that its the one with a big "S-curve" in it
Kinematics (1 год назад)
Sub!!!!!
Jujhar Mann (1 год назад)
if my castor is out on the rear of a bmw f10? could this be the part thats faulty?
Frank Maggio (1 год назад)
Thanks for the video. I'm a loyal customer already. Time to replace my pass side LCA. Felt a pull when I first bought my 05 645ci. I can definitely do it myself. Missing a car lift but have all the other tools! :D
Frank Maggio (1 год назад)
Felt a tiny pull when I applied the brake. A mechanic told me it was the forward LCA which he said is a common item. Guess I'll have to do the rear facing as well to keep things even.
paola paravicino (1 год назад)
Very good.
junayd arnold (1 год назад)
Good job , 👍
Michael McConnell (1 год назад)
Gave me confidence to try this vs $1,000.00 bill
Giggidygiggidy12 (8 месяцев назад)
How did the diy go for you??
BMW BUILD (9 месяцев назад)
Michael McConnell $1000? I would charge $35 labor for each side, who ever quoted you $1000 is trying to rob you
zeeaars (1 год назад)
you are so calm and relaxt..love to learn from youre videos...hope you can do more e39 videos...you have one how to replace oil sump casket of an e39 ??
BaltimoreBam (1 год назад)
good info. Thanks
Leake Little (1 год назад)
Thanks - very helpful and informative. The video was about 17 mins so I expect the time to complete at about 30 mins each?
MRXCHRISS (1 год назад)
I'm going to replace the front upper and lower control arms (1998 BMW 540i). Do I need to replace the bolts on the bushing ends or just new locking nuts? Would it be beneficial to lightly grease the ball joint end before inserting? Thanks for your time..
Rick G (1 год назад)
your video says upper ,but it looks lIke the lower
Charles Avery (1 год назад)
Rick G they're the uppers. The lowers are straight not curved.
Jan S (1 год назад)
Nie trzeba odkręcać mocowania amortyzatora ! Wystarczy najpierw wyjąć drugą stronę i gdy delikatnie wygnie się sworzeń przy kole to całość schodzi !
dzevdet hasanovic (3 месяца назад)
Jan S prevedi bo
eddie padilla (1 год назад)
I Love You great video!!
Toobs138 (1 год назад)
Would this be similar for a 135i E82
Barry LeQuire (1 год назад)
Thank you for an owner of two older X5's
Shawn Mills (1 год назад)
Would this be similar on a 09 335i E93. Dealer told my bushing is bad. So i want to replace the whole unit and not just the Hydrobearing PN#31126763719. And do you carry the whole part.
Milca I Rivera (1 год назад)
this video very helpful  wish every video where like this
john jay (1 год назад)
@Bavarian Autosport *hello there! I have a big problem with the camber on a 1990 BMW E34 520i M20B20 engine after I changed all the parts for the front wheels(I don't know all the names for them in english but it includes little arms,big aluminium ones and some big steel parts!). So: the tires are worn out on the outside part visibly in just over 6500 kms normal driving on good roads! I am a bit disapointed because the tires were brand new and high quality summer tires class A for rain conditions! Why is this happening despite the parts beeing new and good quality? It's my second car ,so you can call me a "novice" in cars! Many friends have told me the camber is too positive and I can't do anything about it,wich I found even more frustrating and not a really good "start" in my driving "carier! Could you help me please with some advice for fixing this issue? If it can be fixed?! thank you!*
MRXCHRISS (1 год назад)
When torquing the rear control arm, does both sides have to compressed to correct ride height, or can I just compress/load one side at a time, the side that I am working on. I read that both sides have to be compressed when torquing or there will be premature wear on the bushings. Thanks.
Afrothunderr86 (2 года назад)
Great video!
Ant Jones (2 года назад)
Thank you, thank you, thank you..  it would have been pay roll deduction to have that done at the shop.. no problem with this r&r..
Michael Vince (2 года назад)
excellent video thanks
islami gentian (2 года назад)
awesome
Sammy Flores (2 года назад)
Do u have a video on how to do this on the e90
Bjorn DeRode Ridder (7 месяцев назад)
Just the same
Bart Neuman (2 года назад)
Otto (Gordon) since there is no Bentley manual for the 745li, I need the torque settings for the different bolts on the upper control arm....otherwise, a great diy Thanks Bart Neuman
Maciej Gnoiński (2 года назад)
Bardzo pomocne, dziękuję Very lelpfull, thx !
Robert Wegner (2 года назад)
Love your Videos,just as a comment, just did replace the thrust arms on my 2008 E63 in my driveway. it was not necessary to lift the strut, seemingly the BMW designers changed it to make it easier. Thank you for the Videos
Ashawkys (2 года назад)
Is this the same for an e70 x5? Also, what are the torque specs for all these bolts and nuts that you tightened?Thanks in advance!
lharvey16 (2 года назад)
With the 2007 X3 E83 3.0si, the thrust arm ball joint is attached from underneath to the spindle with two screws. How would you suggest getting this one out? Thanks,
김호경 (2 года назад)
Hi i have 2011 f10 550i i need to change control arm so i need to buy bolt 6 of them??
Bike4Life 6 (2 года назад)
I know you mention that it would work on a 2012 328i F30, i just want to double check that. Would this tutorial be the same for a 2012 BMW 328i F30?
707SonomaComa (2 года назад)
Do you sell the Bearing Press Tool if the entire arm does not need to be replaced?
vegask2 (2 года назад)
I'm confused in the title it says upper control arm but in the video it is called the lower control arm. Which is it? I don't want to get the wrong one.
Jean Estel (1 год назад)
vegask2 it's the upper in the video, notice how it's attached on the right to the top side of the hub and it's curved. Unlike the lower which is straight and attached to the lower part of the hub.
Marcel Clark (2 года назад)
very helpful I have a 750! bmw
Barry Hansen (2 года назад)
Great Video! The camera work shows the job to be very easy. I wish you would include the torque specs in the video.
Michael Hector (5 месяцев назад)
THATS HOW THEY GET YOU TO BUY THE BOOK, IM SURE YOU CAN GOOGLE SEARCH OR SEARCH BMW FORUMS TO FIND THAT INFO.
ModsAndProjects (2 года назад)
+Barry Hansen Yes, torque specs would be great...
Rob Kwiecinski (2 года назад)
thank you for the video,big help !
Rico Cisco (2 года назад)
great video very very helpful, awesome !!!
Jason Reusch (2 года назад)
Thanks, Otto! Did this job on my 2006 330i and it's even easier than in the video because on the e90 there is more clearance and the control arm comes right out without lossening any other parts.
Spy See Sauce (2 года назад)
This is one of the best videos!!!
ThErAcCoOn1226 (2 года назад)
excellente!
jooper99 (3 года назад)
Are you sure you need to push it off the strut on an e65? I looked, and looks like there's enough clearance.
Mo town Brothers (3 года назад)
Thank you .. That was very good video
Balto D (3 года назад)
Thank you guys so very much. I appreciate all your videos!!!
victor markoff (3 года назад)
Those bolts are so tight.Hand tools never break them lose.
TheTallJS (3 года назад)
Why isn't everyone as good as you?
Mike Mapes (3 года назад)
Wonderful instructional.  Can I use this as a guide to for my 2009 Z4?
Keith Carney (3 года назад)
You guys are great. Very helpful videos.
Ilovefotz (3 года назад)
excellent guide thanks Otto!
Rune Pram Østby (3 года назад)
Thanks for a good toutorial.
Silviu Radu (3 года назад)
Hi,I want to do the same thing at my e39 520d,but I need to buy a extractor ball joint,you can't tell me wath spec need to have the extractor?max high and opening at the base,please excuse my english,thank you
Pedro Bañuelas (3 года назад)
Car is 04 545i
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
+Pedro Banuelas see prior replies. If you need help, please call our Advisors at 800-535-2002.
Pedro Bañuelas (3 года назад)
Also at the beginning of the demo video you mention that the arm you are replacing is the lower control arm, but the video title says upper control arm? I am a lil bit confused, I need to change that exact part on the from the video wich is in the front of the car on the drivers side plus a new locking bolt can you paste the links for these two items as I need to buy both these parts ASAP. And I need the whole thing with bushings. Thanks.
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
+Pedro Banuelas The upper control arm is the one being replaced. Also known as thrust or strut arm. The Meyle and Lemfoerder arms come with new nuts (the bolts are fine to reuse).
Pedro Bañuelas (3 года назад)
Hello, Is the new locking bolt needed for the clamp screw in this video this bolt size on your website: M14 x 1.5. If not can you post the link to the right locking bolt. My drivers side upper control arms bushing is cracked so I need to buy a new one, it feels horrible when driving vibrates the whole car around 15 to 45 mph.
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
+Pedro Banuelas - The bolt is M12 x 1.5 x 100mm, the nut is self-locking M12 x 1.5. The BMW numbers are 33 17 6 760 343 (bolt) & 33 21 6 760 668 (nut). We do not have these in our online store, but our Advisors can order them for you (800-535-2002).
GronDB (3 года назад)
What are symptoms of bad thurst arm on bmw ? Have light steering wheel shaking then braking lightly (no shaking then pushing brake pedal harder) on my e39.
Older Man (3 года назад)
Does the suspension need to be compressed when replacing the lower control arm as well?
David Topchiev (2 года назад)
+Bavarian Autosport How do I know if they are Bad?
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
Yes, same as the upper.
Sinorajoy (3 года назад)
I wanted to change my thrust and lower control arms on my e65 is it the same process
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
Yes, it is.
Ale Ruiz (3 года назад)
Hi a mechanic just replace lower and upper control sway bar and axle but when enter on my driveway (hit a bump)it make a noise like to clanks any idea thanks in advance
Erick Ramirez (3 года назад)
Hi Bavauto, I just got this job done on my E60 M5. I was watching the whole time and noticed that the bushing side of the suspension was tightened before the suspension was compressed. Will that hurt the bushing or wear it faster or what will be the downside of that. By the way, great video. Very detailed :-)
NotARoadie (3 года назад)
+BavarianAuto How quickly would the bushings be damaged? 10's of miles, 100's, ?
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
Go back to the shop immediately and have the bushings loosened and re-tightened with the vehicle at ride height.  We would even suggest that the shop should re-do the whole job ... the bushings can be damaged very quickly in this way.
Roberto Desouza (3 года назад)
good job. i liked
Alexander Salamin (3 года назад)
nice, clean and professional... every mechanic suppose to do so...
Hans Ahola (3 года назад)
Thank you!
Anthony Jones (3 года назад)
Very good, clearly explained and helpful video.
CMOSjockey (4 года назад)
Thank you very much for that. Easier on a lift but something this little woman can definitely do.
Precivilization (4 года назад)
Thanks for the very clear tutorial. Do I have to take my BMW for alignment after this work?
dzevdet hasanovic (3 месяца назад)
Nope
Bavarian Autosport (3 года назад)
+Adrian P Yes, the knuckle spreader is the way to go.  We found and started stocking the spreader just after this video. Yes, 36-ish thousand miles does seem a bit early for the Meyle arms to fail.  Is it the bushings or the ball joints that have failed?  We certainly would not recommend against using the Lemfoerder units as replacement. The thrust arms can indeed affect the toe, as well as the caster.  However, the only adjustment available, on a stock suspension, is the toe setting.  Caster and camber are not adjustable.
Adrian P (3 года назад)
+BavarianAuto Fantastic video, very informative. I will be getting your steering knucle spreader tool though - seems more efficient than the screwdriver.  Question for you guys though - you where installing the Meyle parts. I will be replacing failed Meyle HD thrust arms due them failing after about 60K kilometers (which seems very premature to me). Would you recommend Meyle HD again, or should I go with Lemfeorder? (I know, I know.. it's like a Mac vs PC debate :-D ). P.S. Also, thrust arms affect caster, not toe specs :)
Bavarian Autosport (4 года назад)
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting.  For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
Steven Turco (4 года назад)
Bavauto, after you install new thrust arms, do you need to align the front end? Thanks for the video!
Bavarian Autosport (4 года назад)
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting.  For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.

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