Auto body filler aka Bondo, polyester body filler, plastic filler, mud, etc. is used to fill small imperfections for auto body repair. A few common problems when using #bondo is over grinding the metal on thin metals which thins and weakens the metal. Another problem is, well making a mess by getting it in cracks, gaps, holes, and places you don't need body filler. This takes a lot of time during the shading process to sand and clean the filler out of those areas. This video is going to address these common problems and provide you a few more tips to help you apply and block sand more efficiently and get better results.
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I'm thinking this is teaching beginners which is great . When you go into a production shop and your earning a paycheck its a whole different story . Dent removed and ready for primer.. 20 minutes on a slow day .
The pinholes are a result of too much harder. When the peroxide activates the filler to harden, it releases a chemical release. While hardening too fast it leaves small pinholes. If your getting pinholes, lighten up on the hardner and you'll see. This info I got from the man who wrote the instructions on how to mix bondo on 3M Platinum plus body filler.
The whole "don't criticize unless you can do better" logic is ridiculous. I believe in "don't criticize unless SOMEONE ELSE can do better".
I would say the Eastwood company has already done a better job with this topic. I'm sure there are others, but I only have a sample of two.
This guy ROCKS!. why? Cuz now you can buy a vintage car and know that you can bring it to back to life no matter how much its been modified. RESURRECT an old car and you resurrect the beauty, dreams and soul of the original owner -- the feeling you get when she roars again is priceless!!!
Personally, I would blow my brains out if worked as hard as you do with all that manual sanding. I retired my sanding block years ago. Trust your skill with a palm sander and air file, filler can be shaped perfectly in half the time with half the work. Also quit using that expensive glazing crap. Wean yourself off that stuff.
R&I the door after the fit you want. While fender is bolted to car fix the dents usually 1 coat filler sand with 80 DA any over sand with 180, skim coat with putty, block with 180, soft pad DA WITH 320, prime. Block primer with 320 then soft DA 320 real quick, send to paint. Painters happy everybody’s happy. 2hr. Fix easy RO says 6.
dude before you made this video you should and go get a class of bondo portion ratio for begginers cause with all the bondo you waste on the 1st coat i bet you could have being able to repair the whole car!...just saying!
WARNING : just to let Amateurs know... you should always wear a proper respirator + Goggles when sanding or painting etc... unless you like chronic chest problems or missing eye syndrome , i would also recommend overalls , ventilated area , gloves , steel toe boots , patience
i may have some questions later when i get ready to make the repairs to a 98 mustang gt.
car has passenger side fender peeled back to front of passenger door however flared front edge of door and caused a circular wrinkle just under side mirror, replaced fender with used fender from a salvage yard which was perfect and not wrecked. any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
I do a lot. But in many of the videos, I am demonstrating how to if you don't have all of the power tools. But an air file or 8 inch sander can work well on some body filler. I normally don't like to use a DA sander on body filler because it does not level well and can make it lumpy if you're not careful. Thanks for watching.
Excellent question Dakota. I think I may a video talking about this, but for a quick answer according to the US Bureau of Labor statics, the national average collision repair income is 53,857 with 28% of technicians earning 70,000 or more. Here is a link with more info. http://www.collisioneducationfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/2016-Industry-Snapshot-Executive-Summary.pdf
Thank you so much for this video sir. I'm a rookie body tech assistant and my lead hasn't really taught me much about the techniques of body filler spreading and sanding. This helped a lot. Cheers and thumbs up!
another tip... I found that the filler, even when cured. will be tacky on the surface, and ca clog your sand paper. A trick I came across, is to wipe it down with thinner before sanding. Saves on wasted sand paper
was looking good until you used the same spreader you mixed with to apply the filler. i never do this. i've been using 2 sometimes 3 spreaders when applying mud for over 25 years. why 3? one mixes it and gets set aside. the 2nd spreader i use to force the mud into the ground and sanded metal and gets set aside because ground metal will ruin the edge of a plastic spreader. 3rd spreader will apply the build coats.. and i always make sure i start with smooth edges on my spreaders by "sharpening " them with cardboard...try it, get the feel for it and you will never use sandpaper to smooth the edge on your spreader again. clean your spreaders as quickly as possible , with thinner. don't soak them in thinner or leave them in bondo as both will prematurely distort the spreader. i throw away more spreaders in a month than most people will use in a year. i'm anal about spreaders, i'm anal about mixing and i'm anal about applying filler. i go for perfection whether its a honda or a lexus or a harley or a pedal car.
Hi, this is unrelated to auto body repair but I'm doing a project where I'm using a 5 gallon bucket and I cut the rim off with the handle as well as the opposite side which has like a thin rim on which the bucket sits upright
So I cut that off to make it level with the bucket and sanded it with my dremel but I get ugly looking sides that aren't level with the bucket. I'm trying to get it to look like a perfect cylinder with rounded edges. Can I use bondo to fill in those rough edges? I just got the idea but idk . Also when I paint the bucket I'm using filler primer, is that ok to use on bondo or will it not stick well? Sorry for all the Q's
I've never used bondo before.
Cody Hickman do you have any idea what you just said... fibreglass works on almost everything... it will indeed work on a plastic bumper.. though you may have to make the patch large on the back side of the bumper to prevent the crack from splitting the resin from the plastic.. sand that shit with 60 grit and lay down some glass.. the sandpaper marks will give the glass/resin something to bond to..
Valid question tho...I've gotten to where I'd rather replace a panel vs. repair. Mainly due to getting insurance to pay for everything they should on a repair. But at the school that don't really matter..lol
More then two hrs to repair ! it is cheaper to replace fender. Great video. Labor taking fender off 0.5. Body work 2.5. Prep 0.5. Paint 1.5. Total 5.0. Aftermarket fender $65.00. Lol. Just breaking your balls great. Video. And. Great work.
He is kind of slow I could have had that done and in paint in 2 hours save yourself time and use a DA sander and a interface pad to get close then barley have to block sand and let the primer build up hide the rest.
I agree, but our aftermarket supplier did not have one for this car at the time of this video. We use Keystone, but sometimes they don't have the parts we need....or they are not available aftermarket at all.
I know you are flat rating, but for guys that are learning, they could forego a lot of filler for 20 minutes worth of hammer and dolly work. Its amazing what some dyechem or a big sharpie marker, a block with some 220 and hammer work will do to ever a nasty dent.
Here's one for you. I was a boat builder for years in florida. We found that a sharpie or marker of any kind will prevent the resin from hardening properly. Don't use it. Trust me We had a couple boats delaminate until we figured it out Fiberglas resin (polyester) is the same resin in body filler. By the way...if you want to make your body filler a little easier to work with and get smooth just add a few drops of resin to your bondo....it smooths out like you wouldn't believe. You can add a bit of resin to old bondo and it will loosen it up a bit too.
Ahhh ok. I didn't know that it could be a safety risk. It is a 2012 Honda Accord and this is the THIRD time I've hit something along there and spent thousands to fix the bottom side. This last time I just brushed a curb when pulling into a parking lot next to a curb (like two weeks fater I'd gotten it back from a different accident). I have only had this car for two years and the only car I've ever had accidents in. Never again getting a car so low to the ground. Thanks for this info. Bashed in as in the front part (where it meets whatever is in front of it toward the front passenger door) back about 18 inches, then dented in about an inch and a half like a big gash along the bottom side. But how can you yank it out when it seems to be solid with whatever that stuff is behind it? thanks for replying anyway!
How bashed in? Assuming this is a unibody car, that is a major structural area of the car both for crash safety but also for keeping the car rigid. If its cosmetic damage, you can get a cheap stud welder from a place like Harbor Freight and pull the dent. I actually have one and the welder works damn nice, the puller sucks horribly though so I got a higher quality slide hammer for it. If the inner rocker moved at all, that means the floor pan is also probably damaged and you definitely have a structural repair on your hands.
Thanks for the vide.
1.) What's the purpose of putty after putting the bondo?
2.) Should I use different bondo for metal quarter panel and for bumpers?
3.) What about fillers? Are there different ones for metal and for bumpers?
Can I use bondo(all-purpose) for plastic a bumper it has a long crack and medium hole(about as big as two tumb if you are look at them from Ariel view) . The crack and hole are not connected. If so how thick should the layer be for the hole?
Tips! fiberglass resin thins out bondo so you can make it as thin as you want. Never lay up bondo thicker then 1/16" thick at a time or you will get air pockets in it and the paint will blister after a while. I use clean bondo dust and rub it on the final coat and this helps so your sand paper doesn't clog up so much. Just try to rub the dust on lightly while the bondo is still tacky.
how do you work with it so long i put a line of hardener across the filler and mix it good, but its so this and starts getting chunky and hard before i really finish work with it. iv used less but it stays soft, please help. thanks
+surviveasl The best way is not to smear it while it is soft. Once it dries, it should pop off since the surface is smooth. It will not stick to it. However, if it get smeared on there, it may be difficult to get off.
With the blocking technique showed, you may as have just used a DA. Only when you have no other choice should you use a sanding block sideways. The block should move in line with it's length. With this being edge damage and it only being twice as wide as the block, the sanding motions should have been in a 'X' pattern. Blocking from lower left to upper right and vice versa. You will find the end result will come faster and more true. What's more, in my 33 years in the business I have never needed a guide coat. If I can't feel it, you can't see it. Blocking primer you can see the color and texture changes that really take the place of guide coat.
thanks ! i started working in a body shop like 2 months ago and each time i try to lay the mastic and finition putty the other guys need to re-do the job cause i did sum' wrong, hope your tips will get me on the right way! thanks again!
guys, there's plenty of helpful information here and everything looks & sounds about right but DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT hammer after speading body filler as body filler will definitely de-laminate(seperate or lift) from the metal you are hammering and changing the shape of. unless you absolutely have to get that spot lowered because you will then need to sand off the majority of the filler and start over wasting material and time. ...unless you just love spending money and working longer.
EXACTLY my thought! Work the metal first and save yoursef a huge headache later if that one little correction lifts or some kind of moisture happens to creep in and destroys your finished product from the inside out.
+Joseph Miller you are correct but the filler is thin there and with the pick he is not moving the metal much. Using a 32 oz hammer is another story. I have never had a problem although I would try to work the metal before fillers.
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