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Rich thanks for the videos, very informative and enjoyable. I have inherited from my dad a 2004 dodge 2500 4x4 automatic 5.9 cummins 29,ooo mi garaged. using rotella oil and mopar filters. I had the underbody coated because I have seen issues with the wheel wells rusting out on these trucks. I would love to see a video on how you would do maintenance on a truck like this to get it to a million miles in the best condition possible. Any recommendations and insights on particular problems you've seen as these trucks rack up the miles would be appreciated. thanks again.
Wait now, you seem like a competent mechanic, and yet you're letting your wife drive around in that GM passenger car grenade with a trans just waiting to go off?! The Pontiac G6 and Aura were famous like Gen 1 Northstar or Jimmy Savile famous, the type you don't want to be.
yup! new Jaguar diesel engine oil change is every 32k km... THIRTY TWO THOUSAND KILOMETERS!!!! and it's filter is half a pop can! I do every 5k km with full synthetic, simply because it's easy to remember and less math.
Quick thought. Own an older car and along the lines of preventive maintenance, how about a crank case treatment such as seafoam. What's your take on it? Would it remove/clean up the sort of sludge you just showed, or at least remove some of it? BTW, never miss an oil change and go no more than 5500-7500KM's per change with a synthetic blend (mid grade oil). I've getting close to 300,000 miles on it and never so much as had any engine oil leak. Oh, And its for an 04 camry gasoline engine.
I had the valve cover off my 2006 Civic LX last year at 240,000 km to adjust the values. It was pristine. Perfectly clean, not a spec of sludge. I've owned the car since new. It has never missed an oil change. That Honda maintenance minder, of that generation Civic, signals the end of oil life at 6-8000Km. The car used conventional oil most of its life, only in the last two years did I switch it to synthetic. I've had an oil analysis done at the last change and there were no problems. The engine is now at 260000 Km and runs perfectly. I'll be cautious buying a new generating Honda after seeing this (I'll be peeking through the oil fill cap).
As a pro Tech I recommend 3k miles no matter what. Most vehicles have the service engine or oil change notification indicators based on miles not key cycles and usually notify you at 3k miles. I use synthetic Mobile 1 in everything and change it at 3k, cheap insurance. Also you need to use the manufacture recommended weight oil because with things like cam phasers and VCT engines etc... changing the viscosity will do nothing but cause you headaches. If you car specifies 0 - 20 you use 0 - 20 no matter how many miles are on the clock, gone are the days of using a heavier weight oil because of high mileages, just use specific high mileage blended oils if you have over 100k on it. And yes you can use synthetic oils in high mileage vehicles.
What is your opinion if ........
...you only put on 3,000miles / 5,000 kilometres in 11-12 months
Is it ok to wait until you hit that 3,000miles/5,000km to change the oil? or Should you be changing it every 6 months or something like that even if you don't have the mileage to warrant changing the oil?
strange that a dealer would request such long oil change intervals. Heck most of them try to schedule shorter intervals to get the car in the door more often and to see what other upsells they can perform.
Ok. In 1990 The company I worked for bought a used, like new Chevy Silverado single cab 1500 truck with 80,000 miles. It was the new body 1988 with the 350. I drove the truck 2 yrs with no oil change. It now had 160,000 miles, give or take a few. I started to feel guilty and the dipstick was getting noticeably hard to pull out, so I pulled it in the garage to our mechanic. We put it up on the rack and pulled the plug and it strung from the oil pan to the catchcan on the floor. We finally filled crankcase with kerosene and let it run for 10mins. 3times and droned it. I drove for another two yrs changing the oil every 10 to 15,000 miles before I got a new truck. The truck now had over 250,000 miles and hardly burnt any oil between changes. I was now manager and passed the truck down to one of the guys in my department. Long story short, when we sold the truck for scrap in 2000 it still ran great with 320,000 miles but the body and interior was totally ragged out from all the yrs of service. The valve covers never came off the motor although the transmission was rebuilt twice. I know, I can’t believe it’s true either but it is.
I change every 2500. I have never had engine problems.my newest car is 22 years old and has 187000 miles on it.only the timing has been replaced on secduled mantance.i rotate tire when i change oil.got 85000 miles on my last set of tires.
Synthetic can go up to 10k before you really have to change it. This is one of those things that us older crowd need to get over. When I was a kid back in the 80s oil tech was shit compared to the oils today. Oils today can take the beating and are designed for it. Back in the 80s hell yes you needed to do every 3000 miles because oil tech was not as good
I do every 10,000 miles or if the computer goes off, whichever first. I use full synthetic with extended life filters. I also avoid idling and other harsh activities. Every so many oil changes send your oil out to get tested. If test comes back good, than you are good to go. If it comes back bad, increase frequency or change oil.
Agree with most of that, I do use the OEM oil monitor, but also monitor the km, and never go more than 10,000 km for moderate driving for a gasoline engine on full synthetic, but will ratchet that down if driving hard. Full synthetic from new, oil filter change with every oil change. For diesel engines I change more frequently due to concerns of additive depletion, carbon and sludge build up. Oil is cheap compared to the damage done trying to stretch it too far.
Hate to disagree with you. But synthetic oil does NOT mean you can go longer on an oil, it just has better cold flow properties and high temp stability. The add package is relatively the same as dyno, when it's used, syn/dyno, needs to be changed. The owners manual should state the recommended OCI regardless what the lie o meter says.
Hey Rich what's your opinion on oil catch cans? Expensive ones (with filters) vs eBay? Can you do a video on them? I'm asking because my 5.3L keeps throwing low pressure sensors and the screen behind the sensor plugs even though I do synthetic oil changes every 5k
My neighbor who is a mechanic tried to sell me on the Amsoil 25k oil changes with filter changes in between. Said no thanks. Either I had cars that were too old or had too high of mileage or a newer car that I didn't want to chance it. My little 01 Saturn SL2 gets supertech oil and filters every 3k haha
Totally agree! I live in Europe and I change my oil every 10tk or 1 year(rarely 12tk). I use semi syn 5w40 or 10w40 and i have no issues with my cars in terms of sludge or wear on the engine. I do not agree to the 25tk oil changes or to the other extreme that says 5tk for an oil change.
I don't have a problem with milage, I'm finding out that I reach the time limit for my oil, rather than my milage. My dealership said I should get my oil changed every 3 months, however I'm on month 6 right now. Is time important?
High quality synthetic and an 8K miles interval for my gassers. Wife's TDI goes 6K on specific synthetic. TDI has 270K miles, runs like a precision machine. The two gassers are like new with 150K and 140K respectively. Oil analysis will tell you what the correct interval is.
i don't use oil, i use water.. much cheaper.. also i strip the oil filter of its internals so it does not interfere with the the flow of the water.. I change engines every 3000km its easier than oil change.
i live on the moon and oil is expensive.
My moms Volvo with a V8 hasn't got an oil change in about 7k miles. We plan on taking it soon. If we drive much more, will the engine get damaged? I would change it myself, but it's a Volvo and it would be a pain in the ass.
depends what your driving.. my jeep tj with the 4.0 straight 6 lives off punishment.. never warm it up even in alberta at -40c.. oil change when i feel like it anywhere from 15k-50k.. and i try and bang it off the redline and slam the clutch atleast once a day.. never an issue only thing i find that wears premature is the front wheel bearing... like every 2 years theyre roasted and they use the non-serviceable unit bearings
Look at your hot idle oil pressure just after you change it. When it drops by 10psi...change it. Works on many vehicles assuming you've got a OPM. In my Silverados that's somewhere around 7k miles when the OLM reads about 40%. Using Dino with a GOOD(very important) filter. Remember...you're better off spending money on a good filter than the oil going through it. Oil is pretty much oil so long as it meets spec. Filters can be DRASTICALLY different in quality....
5-7 thousand miles for a used vehicle. i had a 1990 caravan and seldom changed the oil. i'd say about every 5-8k and it had 250,000 miles on it when i sold it and it was still running fine. saw the people that bought it a few years later and they said it was still running well.
maybe some engines need it more often but in my experience changing it early is just wasting money. i always bought the cheaper oil too. put diesel oil in my older motorcycle but i do change it about every 3k because the rpm's it can turn is way higher than 3 to 4k of an automobile. at 7, 8, 10 grand oil breaks down a lot quicker. also most motorcycles use a wet clutch which adds shear to the oil which also speeds up the breakdown process.
My 2016 Cadillac ATS Premium 3.6L non turbo engine, the Oil Life Monitor is saying to change it after only 700 Miles ... I plan to do it at the 1,000 Mile mark with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil (maybe the new Extended Life version) and thereafter, probably every 5,000 to 7,000 Miles or maybe once a year depending on how many miles it gets in 1 year. For now it will continue to get the GM Oil Filter (PF63E for that engine).. we just checked the oil on the dipstick, it was full and it's condition looked as good as brand new from the bottle oil.
I change my oil at 10 k to 12.5k max. all my Honda I have had never had a problem. In uk Honda service maintenance are done at 10k to 12.5k or witch ever came first days or miles. 12. 24.36.7k on so on.
I have driven multiple cheap, old cars from about 100k miles to 150-200k miles without ever changing oil. After that they would go to the "export" (meaning afrika) when maintenance became too expensive for the value. This was never because of engine wear. Usually something like a combination of a rusty exhaust and worn out shock absorbers pushing the repair bill over 500E.
If your car is new, sure change that oil ever 10k miles if you like, its an expensive device so spending 50$ on an oil change isnt that bad and at the very least, a maintenance history will be important for resale value.
If you have a 1000$ old car which you are gonna drive to its grave, you dont need to bother.
I see people in the comment section write numbers like every 3000 or 5000 miles. Thats just insanity even for a new car. I might look at things differently because i exclusively drive Japanese cars and this channel might be more about US cars.
Couldn't agree with you more. 10,000 miles max, 16,000 km. I wouldn't dream of waiting any longer. Only thing is you know with synthetic and semi synthetic that the oil itself starts to wear and the level drops. True of my Mondeo diesel anyhow! I'm doing something right cos still going strong with 336,000 miles on the clock.
it's more important to change the filter than the oil, oil doesn't wear out buts get diluted and polluted, the filter is way more important.... synthetic oil is only essential with a turbo, the turbo spins at up to 10,000 rpm on a plain bearing, otherwise it's only ordinary oil with more additives.
as a ase senior master technician,change your oil every 3500 miles to get the engine clean but mainly the oil pan,after 3 to 5 3500 mile intervals go to 7500 for up to 3-5 then go back to your 3500 mile range,any heavy work any long distance normal travel these changes remain at 3500 period,this assures the main and rod bearings live,timing cahin and belts have service life of 80k on belts and 115 on chains,chevy small blocks and dodge small block eat chains,this goes to 80k if you stand on it every light,valves springs are cooled by engines oil so the 3500 minimum is really it,i'm done
My engine only requires 9 quarts of oil but I just say fuck it and put 12 gallons in every-time I change my oil, which is usually every 13 to 15 miles. I also like to replace the dipstick every 400 miles to make sure my alternator exhaust gas temperature gauge works.
Anybody aware of the study the US Army did with the two landrovers? One had its oil change as schedule....the other ONLY had oil filter and top ups. They found no difference after 100,000 miles. None.
This test needs repeating.
I want oil doing 100% of it's job. Not 90%, not 80% and so on. Oil is cheap compared to the price of an engine. People who complain about oil change prices are just cheap bastards. When that oil life monitor is down to near zero, that oil is so wasted and worn down that there is no way it is properly lubricating your engine. Why would anyone want that in their car? Stop being cheap and service your ride properly!
I have a vehicle that had 400,000 miles on it. I pulled the oil pan and have had the valve covers off also. No sludge anywhere. Changed @ 5,000 miles, using cheapest non-synthetic oil, whatever was on sale. If you want to leave your expensive oil in for a long time, think about what makes oil black. Isn't it carbon? Isn't it carbon that makes our oil black? Could that account for all the sludge? Where can it go if you don't change your oil often?
I would bet my life that oil was not changed buy the dealer. Seen hundreds of engines and that one did not have its oil changed. dealer lied to make the sale. That looks bout what an engine would look like with not having an oil change at 30k
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