In this video I describe and show you how to replace a thermostat housing on a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with the 4.0 liter overhead cam engine. These thermostat housings commonly fail on these engines and cause a coolant leak. They are a little tricky to replace on these Sport Tracs due to the design of the intake manifold. Some mechanics will loosen or remove the intake but in this video I will show you that the job can be performed without removing the intake.
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thank you very much billy!!! have an 04 trac. don't need to replace the housing, but i do need it out of my way. i'm not a mechanic AT ALL but i'm good at figuring things out. you made it much easier. i was actually on the right path but, not being a mechanic, i got nervous and quit til i could get some insight...and you just gave it to me in clear and complete detail...i feel easier now and i thank you very much!!
how hard is it to get the compressor hides pipes v shaped over the motor from left to right out of the way to get access tithe front , the bracket for all seems to be the way for a front removal as well
I just had a mechanic tell me I'm leaking coolant from my headgasket and he quoted me $2500... to my understanding the therm housing is right by the cylinder head, correct? Could my mechanic be mistaken and think it's the head gasket and it actually be the therm housing?
This sucks, side note use a quarter drive swivel, cause the adapter makes it to big on the bolt in the back due to the wiring.. also the bolts easily strip so be prepared to buy extra bolts and a special socket for stripped bolts... wish it was as fast and easy as the video makes it out to be..
hey bub, I just completed this on a 2003 mountaineer, but instead of letting the new housing sit overnight (like I should have) I drove it a couple hours later...should I be worried? didn't over heat or anything, but I'm hoping for longevity
I just replaced mine 3 days ago. Put new sensors in as well. All was good for 3 days. Now I have a check engine light and my temp gauge does not ever come up. I put a new thermostat in when I replaced the housing. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Need to replace my housing............again.............but not going to pay the $100's to a repair shop this time. Your video is very helpful as I prepare. One question I have is when you seat the lower housing, does it require any sealant or anything on the bottom of the housing? Or is there a gasket?
I'm just getting to do this repair on my 98 Mountaineer. Thanks for this video minthillbilly. This is the very "BEST REPAIR VIDEO" I've ever watched. You explain everything so well and make it so easy to understand. Hands down the best auto repair video I've ever watched. Again, Thank You, Dave Kelly
Thanks for this. It's been a while since I turned wrenches, and I'm a little rusty. Over time, you forget the little tricks and the knowledge that's only gained by experience (like don't forget to detach the gear shift indicator before dropping the dash to do a heater core on a crown vic 😆). You guys do a great job of showing people what they need to see, and that only comes from knowing your stuff. Excellent video.
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Yes it can. Ford has a bad problem with these thermostat housing on the 4.0 L, and yes if they are leaking bad enough, it can puddle in the intake valley pan and run off the back of the motor. I recommend if you're not sure, pressure test the system to locate the leak. Hope this help. Thank you for watching. Have a great day.
Nine times out of ten, it is the housing. If you see the coolant residue on the side of the housing more than likely it needs the complete housing. This is a big problem on the Ford 4.0 liter. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and come back and watch more of our How To videos. Have a great day.
Hi, I bought my truck from a dealership and they told me the housing is cracked. They also told me it was a $400 part, plus labor, so I'm a little hesitant to believe them! How do I know if it really needs to be replaced? Maybe it's just the gasket? Btw- GREAT video!!
Jessica Andrews I imagine you already had this taken care of, but I just got a quote of $107 from my local part store (for the housing. I have to transfer the sensors from the old part to the new part). The dealership is probably trying to sell you the sensors, the bypass hose, clamps, etc. with it. They'll always charge you for every screw, clamp, washer, etc. they can and get every dime they can squeeze out of you. I'd go to a mom & pop kind of place instead. I'm just gonna do mine in my driveway.
Im no expert, but if you have no leaking you should be fine just replacing the Thermostat. I changed everything on mine, lower and upper housing, 2 sensors, and of course the gasket and O ring. I would deff recommend you get the parts from the dealer, those will last you a little longer than any other after market parts.
thanks ,did this bout 4 years ago...had problems with several NEW murray water outlets...was told to use dorman...worked good until now ...forgot how I did it without taking off the intake....so thanks for the reminder.....still a poor design though....arhhhggg
Great video! I just did this job today and used this vid to help. The only thing I will add is that you unplugged both sensors it seems before even removing the housing. I was only able to disconnect the one on the left, I had to remove the three bolts and kind of work the housing half way out before I could unplug the other sensor. I connected both of them while the new housing was half way in again.
Had my entire housing, thermostat and sensors changed on my 01 4.0 SOHC Ford Ranger only because of smelling antifreeze seeping from the housing. And from the very first freeway grade I drove up, the needle pegged hot. Never blew coolant or steam out the tailpipe (ever). Level ground is fine. Could the sensor wires be swapped by mistake to make it peg hot? Any suggestions?
Was hoping someone could answer if they did this job and how long (Hours) did it take and was it as easy as the video seemed etc? Two mechancis want over $600 to fix this one saying the part is over $200 and 3 hour labor. I seen the part online ranging from $50-$80 and I use to work on my own vehicles back in the day but haven't much lately but cant afford $600. Any help/comments much appreicated.
This was an absolute awesome video! You explained it so well step by step and even what hose goes to what! You were clear in your voice and could understand you very well!!! I've viewed lots of videos that have issues hearing what they are saying, but you did it great! Thank you so very much!
Just finished mine yesterday. Thanks for the vid! I was able to get mine out and in without removing any wires by just moving them around and un-attaching the one harness mount. Plus removing the water neck. I need to find a better way of replacing the serpentine belt. Kicks my butt every time! Thank You Again! Oh, make sure that short hose isn't any longer than the original. Else it will fight you.
I am getting read to do mine now. Just finished the water pump and putting water in still leaking tracing the leak better than last time to the thermostat housing area so I hope it's the issue this time. I am searching the internet because I didn't know if I would have to remove the intake. More nuts and bolts laying everywhere and still a pain in the back. I love my truck but she's been acting up lately. I am thankful for the video and narrative. Sad we can't see back there to ensure that is exactly the problem. I won't need a reminder now to not loan my truck to the family. Ugh!!!
Very well made video clear and concise covers all the right procedures for this particular vehicle. On Explorers non sport it's allot easier due to the amount of room and clearance issues. This video can be used as well because it address even more info. In regard to other questions you should replace the sensors and all gaskets. These are a very small cost compared to the entire housing. I would recommend Dorman 902-860 it was re designed as an upgrade not a replacement for the housing. Sensors you can go with many brands just make sure it has the right connection spade wise. Great job minthillbilly, I would only add one thing as a note. On the bottom of the radiator you have a petcock/plastic knob for draining coolant. I drain out about a third of coolant and then re-tighten the knob. This will drain out all the coolant from the hoses and area you would be working on. As I disconnected the upper and lower hoses they are empty. After re-starting the engine and going through the heat and cooling cycles just add it back as the level drops. Thanks Friend.
Raider After having a few of those break on me, I just started pulling the lower hose and draining it all out. I worked on a lot of $h!tbox cars, I guess. But we had a tool that hooked up to shop air and would pull the cooling system into a vacuum. Every shop should have one. Being able to detect a leak before filling the system up was handy, and we never had issues with air pockets. It was a beautiful thing.
i drive 2001 ford explorer sport trac edition.
i have a leak in my radiator. i put anti freeze & my vehicle just eats it up.
today i noticed i put water in & fired up the engine & it ate it up real quick.
hoses look fine. dont know much about fixing vehicles but would appreciate some advice.
Was not that easy for me! I had a wiring harness going right through the middle between the sensors. Easy to come out but a bear to get in! Then one of the sensors was stripped and I had to break open the old housing to remove. I ended up taking the intake bolts off and letting it float up a bit. Made things much easier. I took the housing off but could not find the leak?!?! Oh well no leaks now. Thanks Minthillbilly.
Outstanding video instruction! Great camera work and narration! You have a terrific talent for showing how things can be accomplished with ease and finesse. I feel a huge weight taken off my shoulders. I owe you big time for this one!!!
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