The million mile 12v Cummins is dead! Time to teardown & rebuild.
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We show you everything you need to know to keep a million mile Dodge RAM hauler on the road by rebuilding a "new" 250k mile 5.9 Cummins 12v 6BT.
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I'm SO tired of the "distorting" pistons/crankshaft BS!
If you have ANY METAL in an engine SOFT enough to "distort" while just sitting on a bench top or shelf, then it has NO place in my engine! Never "Stand" or "Hang" a crank or camshaft, because you are More likely to knock it over or drop it, causing "real" damage, as opposed to Imaginary bending, or distortion, from laying it down. This Stupid Myth should have Died before it EVER got started! I was discussing this very subject, with my machineist, and asked him why He "stood" His cranks up, and he says, "It has Nothing to do with keeping them from bending, it's because they take up less room that way!" We discussed the Fact that "Standing" a crank up actually applies a Much Higher "bending" force against the rod and main journals, due to gravity and the weight of itself, then if you lay it flat. This is a rediculous Fairy Tail, that needs to go away!
Last question for you. Don't you think a 30 pound Harmonic Balancer, would cause the end of your crankshaft to bend down and wobble, If you didn't start it for a year?
Answer OF COURSE NOT! So laying a piston down on ANY TABLE under its Own weight, WILL NEVER DISTORT IT TO ANY MEASURABLE EXTENT! Prove me wrong!
Lol that has to be some of the biggest bullshit I've ever heard don't lay the Pistons on their sides because it will distort them ha ha what in the hell? They go up and down hundreds of times a second and deal with 800+ degrees of heat what the hell is it gonna do if you lay them on their side I have never heard of that....
I had a 24 valve with 53 cracked block, that I swapped with a 56, I just wasn't sure if it was ever heard of a 12 valve 53 cracking. ? I guess it is a completely different stamp (24 vs. 12v.) and mine was turned up quite a bit @ 275000mi. With that many miles/hours on an engine, its had an awful lot of heat cycles! I was at a machine shop that had a 24 valve block( non 53) (run as a generator) and they said it had 80,000 hours and it needed everything done to it.
I know you work on older motors (5.9's and the lot) but the 6.7 is getting close to 10yrs in some trucks, would you ever do a video about the 6.7 cummins. I would like to hear your thoughts on them in general (maybe a everything wrong with video or if its worth getting one over a 5.9?)
Wow!! This is a great video, I have heard that there may be only 3 cam shaft bearings, and if during the rebuild, will you install additional cam bearings? I have older 24 valve engines and would like to install stronger valve springs. What is your take on the number of cam bearings? 🙄
You disassembled that truck with such care and finesse lol. I’ve had pretty good success welding nuts to the exhaust studs letting them cool some then with great care and finesse put you impact wrench on it lol. Joking aside, I am serious about the impact. You just have to know your gun well and be easy on the trigger and let those “ good vibrations “ go to work. Lol.
So what brand of oil filters is recommended? Sometimes to get rusty bolts out, heat it then put oil on it while it cools- somehow the oil gets sucked in between the parts while they cool. I don't know the scientific explanation, but it works. Also save those dodge seats if they're not ripped.
I just redid a 24v with #1 and 6 cracked compression rings in the piston. Being a machinist by trade ive never liked the drill hones. I think the variation goes against what I was taught . Not to say its wrong or doesn't work . I just would rather send the block to a susen hone w/ 280 grit stone. Tell the new owner get a HE351 he will enjoy the updated turbo . It comes stock on a 04-07 ram.
DEBOSS GARAGE i have a second question. On my 3rd gen I recently had to replace the radiator. After I bought it I noticed it had two holes in it. So I brought it back to the shop and they offered to replace the radiator I bought and install it for me. I decided to just let them do it since they would do it faster than I would and I needed my workhorse. Well after I got it back I noticed a whistling that’s not coming from my turbo and only happens after I get over 2000RPM’s. It sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side. I’ve checked all my hoses and they look fine. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any help is appreciated and thank you for answering my previous question. Love the channel
Been looking for a 12 or 24v for my excursion swap I guess the lesson learned here is don't be scared of a high mileage, crusty 5.9. lol. Seen some ugly ones so far. Question on block deck prep, was that a regular steel wire wheel? and I am assuming part 2 shows you going over the head?
It is possible and if it was in an expensive block we would have considered it. The proper way to do it is heat as much of the block as possible and weld it with cast rod. The weld shrinks at a different rate then the cast though and its hard to not have it crack after. Steel gets tired though and this block is tired. It has roughly 25 000 hours on it (excluding idling) and something else is likely to break. Sucks doing all the work to repair it and have it crack beside it in a year
Rich I was wondering if you have ever rebiult a 4 cylinder Perkins diesel engine or know of anyone who has we are looking to rebuild ours but don't have many options to get ours rebuilt and are looking for info on how to do it thanks
If it were a Ford you'd just keep it in the junk yard. The Chevy would have a bent frame but still somehow. It's crazy to see how everything around the Cummins was trashed but the engine is still perfect.
When pulling the crank out it doesn't actually matter where you start removing bolts because let's not forget you have oil clearance say like 2-4thou so your crank is on the top main bearings while the engine is upside down!
Gas only in my resume', do those piston coolers have a much smaller tip than the opening on the saddle ? Is there a dedicated feed for them somehow ? seems like it would be tough to keep pressure up with 6 open bleeds on the main gallerie like that.
we get the bonus to have a new vehicle every 10 years , smell that sweet salty ocean air on a summer morning , and have 4 seasons , fall and spring are my favorite , could not take the heat of living down there
He's dumping gallons of used oil all over it to keep it from rusting. That's the only logical explanation. Thick wax coatings are good but they dry up and water can get into weird spots. The oil soaks deep into the metal and keeps it fresh for decades.
Mark M I have a lifted, deleted, heavy tuned 6.7 that gets driven hard daily and it a auto with 260k on it. Factory motor, trans, and turbo. 8 inch lift running 37 inch 22.5 Simi tires and gets 21mph hwy with the cruise control on and my foot out if it. Sounds like you don't know what you're talking about
Kenneth Law hell if you fix the problem it's usually no longer an issue. I bought a 98 Merc sable had some issues fixed them it just rolled 300k miles and I'd drive it to Cali with confidence.. granted I'd rather drive my Chevy express with 500k miles
Hayden Denard I see the same issue with cylinder liners. The only way the metal would deform is if it were pushed with enough force to enter it's plastic deformation phase and the weight of the liner itself just isn't going to do that. Maybe if you put a bunch of weight on top of it while it's on its side.
Do R/C! I've done a lot also, I think laying them carefully on a clean surface won't damage them. Some guys are a little ham handed and bang them together or put them down hard and they get scratched, gouged and dented. I've seen knuckleheads ruin perfectly good parts just by not being careful or not giving a f#ck.
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