The million mile 12v Cummins is dead! Time to teardown & rebuild.
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We show you everything you need to know to keep a million mile Dodge RAM hauler on the road by rebuilding a "new" 250k mile 5.9 Cummins 12v 6BT.
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I had a 24 valve with 53 cracked block, that I swapped with a 56, I just wasn't sure if it was ever heard of a 12 valve 53 cracking. ? I guess it is a completely different stamp (24 vs. 12v.) and mine was turned up quite a bit @ 275000mi. With that many miles/hours on an engine, its had an awful lot of heat cycles! I was at a machine shop that had a 24 valve block( non 53) (run as a generator) and they said it had 80,000 hours and it needed everything done to it.
I know you work on older motors (5.9's and the lot) but the 6.7 is getting close to 10yrs in some trucks, would you ever do a video about the 6.7 cummins. I would like to hear your thoughts on them in general (maybe a everything wrong with video or if its worth getting one over a 5.9?)
Wow!! This is a great video, I have heard that there may be only 3 cam shaft bearings, and if during the rebuild, will you install additional cam bearings? I have older 24 valve engines and would like to install stronger valve springs. What is your take on the number of cam bearings? 🙄
You disassembled that truck with such care and finesse lol. I’ve had pretty good success welding nuts to the exhaust studs letting them cool some then with great care and finesse put you impact wrench on it lol. Joking aside, I am serious about the impact. You just have to know your gun well and be easy on the trigger and let those “ good vibrations “ go to work. Lol.
So what brand of oil filters is recommended? Sometimes to get rusty bolts out, heat it then put oil on it while it cools- somehow the oil gets sucked in between the parts while they cool. I don't know the scientific explanation, but it works. Also save those dodge seats if they're not ripped.
I just redid a 24v with #1 and 6 cracked compression rings in the piston. Being a machinist by trade ive never liked the drill hones. I think the variation goes against what I was taught . Not to say its wrong or doesn't work . I just would rather send the block to a susen hone w/ 280 grit stone. Tell the new owner get a HE351 he will enjoy the updated turbo . It comes stock on a 04-07 ram.
DEBOSS GARAGE i have a second question. On my 3rd gen I recently had to replace the radiator. After I bought it I noticed it had two holes in it. So I brought it back to the shop and they offered to replace the radiator I bought and install it for me. I decided to just let them do it since they would do it faster than I would and I needed my workhorse. Well after I got it back I noticed a whistling that’s not coming from my turbo and only happens after I get over 2000RPM’s. It sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side. I’ve checked all my hoses and they look fine. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any help is appreciated and thank you for answering my previous question. Love the channel
Been looking for a 12 or 24v for my excursion swap I guess the lesson learned here is don't be scared of a high mileage, crusty 5.9. lol. Seen some ugly ones so far. Question on block deck prep, was that a regular steel wire wheel? and I am assuming part 2 shows you going over the head?
It is possible and if it was in an expensive block we would have considered it. The proper way to do it is heat as much of the block as possible and weld it with cast rod. The weld shrinks at a different rate then the cast though and its hard to not have it crack after. Steel gets tired though and this block is tired. It has roughly 25 000 hours on it (excluding idling) and something else is likely to break. Sucks doing all the work to repair it and have it crack beside it in a year
Rich I was wondering if you have ever rebiult a 4 cylinder Perkins diesel engine or know of anyone who has we are looking to rebuild ours but don't have many options to get ours rebuilt and are looking for info on how to do it thanks
If it were a Ford you'd just keep it in the junk yard. The Chevy would have a bent frame but still somehow. It's crazy to see how everything around the Cummins was trashed but the engine is still perfect.
When pulling the crank out it doesn't actually matter where you start removing bolts because let's not forget you have oil clearance say like 2-4thou so your crank is on the top main bearings while the engine is upside down!
Gas only in my resume', do those piston coolers have a much smaller tip than the opening on the saddle ? Is there a dedicated feed for them somehow ? seems like it would be tough to keep pressure up with 6 open bleeds on the main gallerie like that.
we get the bonus to have a new vehicle every 10 years , smell that sweet salty ocean air on a summer morning , and have 4 seasons , fall and spring are my favorite , could not take the heat of living down there
He's dumping gallons of used oil all over it to keep it from rusting. That's the only logical explanation. Thick wax coatings are good but they dry up and water can get into weird spots. The oil soaks deep into the metal and keeps it fresh for decades.
Mark M I have a lifted, deleted, heavy tuned 6.7 that gets driven hard daily and it a auto with 260k on it. Factory motor, trans, and turbo. 8 inch lift running 37 inch 22.5 Simi tires and gets 21mph hwy with the cruise control on and my foot out if it. Sounds like you don't know what you're talking about
Kenneth Law hell if you fix the problem it's usually no longer an issue. I bought a 98 Merc sable had some issues fixed them it just rolled 300k miles and I'd drive it to Cali with confidence.. granted I'd rather drive my Chevy express with 500k miles
Hayden Denard I see the same issue with cylinder liners. The only way the metal would deform is if it were pushed with enough force to enter it's plastic deformation phase and the weight of the liner itself just isn't going to do that. Maybe if you put a bunch of weight on top of it while it's on its side.
Do R/C! I've done a lot also, I think laying them carefully on a clean surface won't damage them. Some guys are a little ham handed and bang them together or put them down hard and they get scratched, gouged and dented. I've seen knuckleheads ruin perfectly good parts just by not being careful or not giving a f#ck.
Don't get me wrong, I'm just sharing my experiences, I haven't seen a fram filter destroy an engine either, but I have seen them come incredibly close multiple times.
Just a month or two ago a family member brought their car to me for shocks, and it had a little funny sound at idle. Turns out the fram filter was severely restricting oil flow, enough to make a nasty lifter tap at idle but not enough to trigger the idiot light.
The glue at the filter material seam came loose and there was no metal crimped around it like a wix filter has, so the material began coming loose until it began to plug up the oil passages.
Obviously they would be out of business if every filter failed, and many don't, my dad has used fram filters for decades, and only stopped once he saw that filter clog oil passages and my cut apart filters to see the difference.
I know I won't change anyone's opinion, nor am I trying to, but in the same breath, I'm not about to start using fram filters now either.
I know people who have $100 ebay turbos running 30+ psi for years on their cars and trucks. I also know my luck will never support such behavior, Either I'm terribly rough on stuff or just have awful luck but I prefer to avoid the risk of ultra-cheap parts, filters, or anything that will take my expensive engines with them if they fail. No made in china injector nozzles for me.
I have long said I wouldn't buy an engine if it had a fram filter on it, and I've refused to use fram filters when family or a customer brings one for an oil change. Generally speaking I use wix xp filters on my stuff, and my customers stuff. However I have been tempted to try the lf9028 I believe it is on my trucks. Supposedly very good filter, costs around $30 though vs about $10 for the wix xp, big jump up from a $4 fram deal, but with the money I spend on my truck and the money it makes me, I feel like i can afford a few extra bucks to protect it.
Nope the cheap orange cans are just as bad as they were back then. I trust Mobil1 for basic filtration. If you want your 5.9 to last forever go with the LF9028 or similar 2 stage full flow and bypass filter.