5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Vehicle
5 Things Never Do Playlist - https://goo.gl/x9RK72
Subscribe for new videos every Wednesday! - https://goo.gl/VZstk7
Proper break-in is important for the reliability, performance, and longevity of your vehicle. Part of the way you make sure your engine lasts is through how you drive your new car for those first thousand miles (check your owner's manual for the exact mileage). There are several things which you should avoid doing, including giving your vehicle full throttle, taking your engine to redline, using cruise control, traveling short distances, and towing. We'll talk about various different engine break-in procedures, used in the Nissan GT-R, Acura NSX, Chevrolet Corvette, and even a land-speed record car built by an FCA engineer as a hobby.
Don't forget to check out my other pages below!
Official Website: http://www.howdoesacarwork.com
Car Throttle: https://www.carthrottle.com/user/engineeringexplained
EE Extra: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsrY4q8xGPJQbQ8HPQZn6iA
NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!
I know this is a bit of a late response but here goes. First, good video! I've heard your comments before, and I've read the arguments for a hard break-in right of the bat. Through the years, I've tried both methods and, at least for the cars and motorcycles I've owned, couldn't tell any difference one way or the other after the fact. None of the vehicles gave me any mechanical problems down the road and none of them had any unacceptable oil consumption issues. These days, I just drive normally and don't really spend a lot of time thinking about it.
I do have one question though.
What about turbocharged or supercharged engines? Almost all turbocharged engines I've driven will spend at least some time in a positive MP range even under "normal" driving conditions. I would think that a turbo engine running 5 to 10 psi positive boost would be putting more pressure on the pistons and rings than a NA engine at full throttle would be so, can you comment on that one way or the other? Thanks!
"Don't floor it" isn't always applicable so do better research. many high performance engines have been run in prior to completion of the car in the factory. All these fools driving around at a max of 4000rpm in a Nissan GTR or Audi R8 don't realise their cars engine has already been ragged on a test bench and run at max rpm already. GTR's are also driven on obstacle courses totest brakes and suspension and to check for rattles etc. Mclarens are run in from factory and an actually be driven hard right from new, which has been proven.
Playing devil's advocate; why is it in the manufacturer's interest to have a long break in period?
• Lower stress on components means they're less likely to fail during the time your customers can return the vehicle.
• Forcing you to drive slowly may disguise the fact that your new car is actually slower than your last one, and the added anticipation makes the performance "feel" better when you do finally floor it.
• Why do Acura specifically break in the NSX engines? Higher than average infant mortality perhaps? As you know, failures tend to follow an inverse bell curve, failures are highest when very new or very old. If you know the engine is highly strung, and you want to look good in the reliability surveys, you make sure it goes through the infant mortality phase at the factory; not when your customer is driving it. It's an expensive car, so they may actually care about that ;)
at 64 years old I have never babied an engine like he is showing in this test for lab data it might be good for grandma's new car but not for me and my new Ford Fiesta ST. I run it hard with 20 miles on it when I bought it. It is the summer tires that are in need of a break in not the engine and brakes should be careful not to over heat the new disk brake pads and rotors. Don't take my word for it find out for yourself people.
With an engineering blog, surely we need some scientific evidence? It can’t be too hard to get hold of a decent number of sample of engines to tear down and examine hard break-In vs following official guide? Anecdotal stories are fine, but let’s see the evidence of the damage from a hard break-in (not crazy, just full throttle from time to time within the first “critical” miles. Seems engine builders think hard is better? Odd that over many years of improving tolerance, better oil, better materials, the advice is unchanged?
Idle it warm, drive around the block a bit nice and carefully. Go home change oil. Go to country road, 3rd gear, load it up to 1-2k under the redline. Let it run down in gear to 30, do it again.
Then change the oil again and give it. Stay under 4.5K and it will be best compression possible.
I just lease a 2018 STI Limited. I did this because I don't have to drive my new STI like an old man when I just got it and want to go full out. Plus I can put all the bolt ons I want on the car then remove them, and put the OEM parts on when lease turn in time comes. I never have to worry about longevity, I usually turn in 36 month leases with 25K miles on them. Plus, if breaking in was such as big deal Subaru or any other car company would program the engine not to go over a certain RPM etc until a certain mileage has been met. Also when you test drive the car and floor it like all salesmen of this car wants you to do in order for you to lust over it even more they would actually freak out. Looks like 150-300 miles is break in time.
Does this apply to my petrol lawnmower? Do I need to break it in for the first 500miles in order I can get some extra performance and acceleration out of it? Can I wait before it reaches it's optimal operating temperature first?
First there is nothing to “break in”. All tolerances are set
Rings need to seat with pressure ...so the harder the engine is worked the better
Especially true during first few miles...limited time to get this done as bores will burnish
OEMs recommend this especially in high performance cares for ONE VERY GOOD REASON
LIABILITY.....they want the DRIVER to get use to the car and HP before they hammer it.
They sell this by tricking the driver into thinking it the engine but in reality it’s for the DRIVER.
I work for a major OEM and we hammer every test engine on startup once at designated temp...(lower then you might think) to get the best HP numbers and best test results.
I asked my dealer about this specifically, he said not to worry about it, so I'm driving it kind of hard here and there, reading the manual bit by bit, only to coma across the section telling me to stay under 4000rpm... I just hope I didn't go too hard, too much, or held constant rpm too much (used cruise control briefly as well) to affect anything. Now I'm doing my best to drive as boringly as possible for the next 1200Km's or so to break things in nicely.
i break in my new car by taking it to the drag strip straight from the dealership and floor it every time i accelerate and slam on my breaks, also finds it good to shift to R, Racing mode at 30 miles per hour and then shift to P while its moving for that extra Performance.
Ha Ha, P for PERFORMANCE mode only kicks in at near walking speed!! (forward or in R racing mode) Or do you have manual transmission? Then certainly, from N and forward speed slam that puppy into R while stomping on the GO pedal.
They floor down any car before it leaves the factory to see everythings allright so I do the same after 30mn ride when engine and gears are warm before the warranty is gone, only retired people try to keep there car till they die.....
So I'd assume that Nascar and all the other motorsports where they're changing tires during a race have pre-worn tires and maybe even brakes? To extend that thought, do they drive their car around the track a number of times to break in the engine too?
I got an almost brand new 1.0 ecoboost fiesta with 2000km on the clocked.
I took it to redline very often,and floored it 95% of the time on the german autobahn :D that sh*t probably won't last 100000km
Best thing -
run a fresh engine on a electric motor without fuel but under full oil psi. - Pre heated hot water at coolant temperature of @ 215 degs....
Set vehicle on jack stands - remove drive tires - put in gear and turn on electric motor.
Run engine- very load by transmission gears and at low speed at first 3 hours...
Let cool - replete step one...
Let cool - install tires, and fuel... Drive under break in as asked for...
Note... What is being done is low stress break in by the above - it's just a conditioning the parts to the wear points - blurring the hi points....
A factory would recommend a gentle break in for warranty reasons, I'd like to hear the real data behind a gentle break in instead of just what the manufacturers say, I've read a bit about the aggressive break in procedures and don't believe everything I read, but I know enough engineers to know they believe what they believe and no one else can tell them anything.
Funny, never did a repair on a car that was "floored" during a break in period. 25 years in dealerships with multiple different brands. I hereby debunk this myth. Engines are engineered and torture tested beyond what any new car driver could throw at them. If engines end up consuming oil or prematurely failing, it is a result of abuse, ie: mechanically over revving, lack of lube, poor maintenance, or bad design. Engineers will put a prospective engine in sub zero conditions on a dyno, start, and immediately rev the engine to redline for hours.
Should mention that I dump the oil and filter after 500 miles on a brand new engine.Then at 1500 miles, Then at 3000 miles. Then I switch to synthetic and 3000 mile intervals. Both my Subarus (6 cyl) are approaching 200,000 miles with no engine issues.
Points one and two. Don't BABY IT. Run it somewhat aggressively once in a while when safety considerations allow for it. Any good engine builder will tell you the first 100 miles are critical for ring sealing and they seal best if you can vary load and speed during that initial period. Again, within reason. BTW, I enjoy your video's. Thanks for sharing.
Breaking in the car is supposed to be done in the production already from what i’ve heard. The process is already done before you buy it so i think its not a thing to worry that much maybe. However, still its a nice thing to be gentle in using a brand new car.
so in our helicopters we always allow the engine to come up to temp, and on shut down we allow a cool down period prior to shutting down. could you explain if you were to do this in a car what would be the effect.
How would you avoid #1 and #2 in a CVT going up a very steep hill while obeying speed laws? If an engine needs a break-in period it's flawed. It should be immediately usable for emergencies or whatnot. (yes I mean it. Engines should be very very well tested and worn in before being sold because of legal issues. I live in a very hilly area)
I mean, I CAN'T follow these rules. the whole reason we own a car is for sub 30-minute trips. it would take me a year to do the break-in period. and a lot of those trips, I'm towing something. I can't just not use my car for it's intended purpose for a year.
I have run in a 24 new cars (evenly split between petrol and diesels) over the last 40 years which varied from Lada 1200s to a Peugeot 205 GTi and other small performance hatches. This video matches my own findings, especially the recommendation to use a light throttle and moderate revs for the first 200-300 miles whilst varying engine speed then gradually step on it a bit more as the miles progress. I would also advise against labouring the engine at all when running in as this can cause serious damage, possibly more than initially driving too hard.
All these rules are meaningless beacuse by the time you buy your new car some other douchebag has test driven it and floored it or the dirtbag doing the PDI on new vehicles drives it like his on a racetrack during the inspection.. I work at dealership so i have witnessed these things
Buy your car new with less than 10 miles on odometer (no road test done before by salesman or customers), RESPECT THE ENGINE BREAK-IN AS PER THE VW OWNER'S MANUAL, use 91 oct gas all the time unless VW let you to use 87, have oil change only at dealership, do not accelerate fast when engine is cold and you should not have problem in the future.
The running in process is not for the engine its for the car and all its ancillaries. To try and find any small leaks and issues at a steady pace even looking for any problems nothing to do with the engine, i.e suspension, gearbox, breaks, steering etc
I assembly engines for a living, we have 3 minutes to test them, that includes start,power runs and cool down, these are fresh new engines.
Start, idle, low rpm, high rpm, power runs and throttle adjustments to make power etc.
Community pharmacists are the health professionals most accessible to the public. They supply medicines in accordance with a prescription or, when legally permitted, sell them without a prescription. In addition to ensuring an accurate supply of appropriate products, their professional activities also cover counselling of patients at the time of dispensing of prescription and non-prescription drugs, drug information to health professionals, patients and the general public, and participation in health-promotion programmes. They maintain links with other health professionals in primary health care.