No more leaks in 5.9 Cummins oil pan! Simple fix!
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5.9 Cummins diesel engines are notorious for oil leaks. Rich shows you how to fix it without buying any parts. All you need is a welder and a 1 5/8-inch hole saw!
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Here's a possible solution that is cheaper than welding: Those four voids look like a machinist's key way. Find a selection of machinist's shaft keys, i.e. woodruff, taper or gib-head. Cut four to size and use a punch to place the shaft key. That should add volume and support to tightly fill the four tang voids. What's the micrometer width of those tangs? ( again: this is a "possible" "untried" solution - without removing oil pan? ) cogitare=Rich
Should not test with oil test with alcohol or water. If you messed up oil will contaminate your welding surface and you’ll never be able to fix a pin hole with oil in it. Do not use brake cleaner on a welding surface fumes can kill you.
I have seen someone seal a drain plug using a Mellow Yellow bottle piece as the "washer". I put the correct washer back on and it stopped that massive oil leak. My Cummins doesn't leak yet from the drain pan, but I always torque to spec when I retighten it.
The Biggest reason for a Cummins pan to leak at the drain plug, is the 300 pound gorilla on the end of the ratchet.
35 ftlbs is the max you want to torque them (the old value was 60!), over tightening is the main reason for the washer and pan to distort. It was actually the general rule years ago to replace the plug at every oil change according to Chrysler but customers starting complaining about the cost of oil changes so that policy was changed.
Spent a bit of time looking at oil drain plugs, why do more manufacturers not use a rubber seal?
Lots use crush washers, metallic, nylon or other plastic, Ford has a washer with an integral inner rubber washer/seal and Chrysler used a rubber seal on some of their engines but that was all I could find.
Not as neat a solution but would save welding, a "piggy-back" plug where you screw in one hollow plug "permanently" and then screw in another that seals on those inner threads. I guess the theory would be that way the thinner sheet of the pan would be far less likely to be distorted over the life of the engine.
I would never paint the inside of an oil pan. DANGER, Will Robinson! If the paint gets affected by the oil additives, it can and has separated, clogging the strainer and killing the engine. A properly cleaned and prepared block with Glyptal coating will last for years with no problems. But never just "paint"...
"lifetime" we an know that just means it lasts longer than the warranty. You could still change the oil in a setup like this though. In a marine application they have no drain plug in the pan because they put the engine basicly right against the bottom of the hull. You remove the engine oil thought the dipstick with a long tube and a pump or the engine has a hose that comes off the oil pan and you pump it out from there.
Cheapest fix. Throw old drain bolt at a Chevy. Tappy tap tap a cork in where the bolt was and fill with oil. Cork screw the bung out next time and drain the full bodied oil , save for reuse in Chevy with the old bolt in windshield and open more wine for the corks and repeat.
I have a client that "lost" their drain plug so they had someone weld a plug on it to seal it.... Now whenever the oil gets changed it has to be done through the dip stick with an evacuation pump.... It sucks! I like your way way better. Great job I may or may not use your technique on said truck.
I got a oil drain valve. I never need to be concerned about stripping threads, oil leaks, or getting my hands dirty. When it's time to do an oil change I just flip the valve and swap the filter relocated under the bumper. When the oil drains out; close the valve, dump in 11 quarts of T6 and away I go for another 10k miles.
One of my trucks has 100k miles with one of those drain valves from day 1. A few weeks ago it lost control in Montana and drove into a snow bank. The drain valve was still locked and held in the oil until the tow truck arrived. If you're worried about it coming undone I'd get the short one and the optional clip to keep it secure. I'm not affiliated with any of those companies as the concept of a valve with a thread on it has been around forever....
+RAM TRUCKS I drive a 2nd gen 24v and it's got to be the cleanest one I've seen in town. There isn't a drop of oil on the outside of my Cummins. I keep all of my possessions as clean as humanly possible. My garage floor isn't painted and it looks brand new. It takes just a minute to think about keeping clean when working on something or improving a process.
I never claimed my solution would repair this oil pan. I'm just sharing what I've used on every one of my trucks and I don't have to worry about a bolt when doing oil changes. I got one on the tractor where the drain is covered by a mess of suspension components. That one has a hose on it to get the oil out of the way into a catch. Have a great weekend
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